Gosh, welcome to yet one more beautiful nook of Cornwall…
Tucked into the far southwest of England on the south coast, positioned between Falmouth and the Lizard Peninsula, the Helford River is a tidal estuary the place historic woodland meets the water, the place timber tower above paths that line the water’s edge, and actions in and on the water are on the coronary heart of what makes life so stunning right here.
The primary time I visited Helford River, I spent the afternoon canoeing and took in my environment, which was similar to a reminiscence from British Columbia, Canada. The panorama right here actually is so totally different from anyplace else in Cornwall (if not the UK), and it makes for an absolute gem on any Cornwall itinerary – significantly
You could already recognise the Helford from Daphne du Maurier, who used Frenchman’s Creek because the setting and title of her 1941 smuggling romance? That, mixed with a status for oysters, seahorses, and among the greatest wild swimming within the nation, is what has put the Helford on the map. However it nonetheless feels unique, and a visit right here is a good retreat from busier spots like St. Ives, Newquay, Padstow, and Bude.
This Helford River journey information is your one-stop store for planning a visit constructed totally across the open air, absorbing the perfect issues to do on the Helford River.
Let’s dive in…
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The right way to Get To the Helford River
By airplane: The closest worldwide gateway is Bristol or London, from the place you’ll be able to fly into Newquay Airport (the closest airport round an hour’s drive from the Helford).
By prepare: The closest prepare stations to the Helford River are Truro or Falmouth, each roughly 20–half-hour away by automotive. You’ll be able to arrive in Truro immediately from London Paddington in simply over 3 hours (and it’s one of the vital beautiful prepare journeys within the nation).
If you happen to’re road-tripping from elsewhere within the UK, the A30 is your important street down into Cornwall, and when you’ve handed Truro or Helston, you’ll start to wind down more and more slim lanes earlier than arriving in Helford nation.
Journey tip:
Permit additional time when planning your drive, as the ultimate few miles are countryside lanes, typically single-track with passing locations. Falmouth is the final ‘huge’ city, so for those who want shares, you should definitely cease, because it has the final huge supermarkets, gas stations, and outlets earlier than you drop into the quieter Helford villages.
The place to remain on the Helford River
The river has two very totally different “sides,” and the place you sleep will form your journey. My suggestion could be to undergo the most effective issues to do on the Helford River (learn the remainder of this put up) after which see the place your favorite issues are positioned on the map.
The north financial institution (Helford Passage, Durgan, Port Navas) has simpler street entry and is the place you’ll discover Budock Vean Lodge (the place I not too long ago stayed, see beneath) and a lot of the paddling operators.
The south financial institution (Helford village, Frenchman’s Creek, Manaccan) feels wilder and extra distant, and is greatest reached both by driving the great distance spherical or hopping on the passenger ferry.
Tip: When reserving your lodging, think about street entry and water entry. Some spots alongside the river are fairly distant.
My most up-to-date go to to the Helford River had me discover from the Budock Vean Lodge, which is round 20 minutes from Falmouth and sits on 64 acres of woodland proper on the riverfront. Yep, after your morning espresso and continental breakfast, you’ll be able to take a 5-minute wander by means of the plush rainforest (along with your spa gown nonetheless on for those who fancy) right down to dip your toes within the water.
We spent our 3 days on the Helford River, floating between the resort spa’s jacuzzi and sauna, the GAIA therapies on provide, and the encircling walks and choices. Notably, the river cruise, which allowed us to discover the entire river from the water (extra particulars beneath). If you happen to’re searching for your Helford River journey to really feel like a retreat, I wouldn’t hesitate to guide Budock Vean. It felt so grounding to be on the land; it felt unique, however you’re nonetheless shut sufficient to discover every part listed within the beneath greatest issues to do in Helford River.
Greatest time to go to the Helford River
Might to September is the overall window for fulfilling climate on the Helford River, although as you in all probability know, you can’t assure the climate on this nation!!!
What I can say is that the warmest swimming water arrives late within the season. The Helford’s sheltered, shallow creeks imply the water typically peaks round 16–18°C in September, later than the open coast.
Are available spring, and also you’ll see bluebells and camellias by means of the woodland gardens, whereas late October rewards guests with the temperate rainforest turning gold, quieter trails and lodging, and glorious fishing. I visited in July, and there was a heatwave with little or no wind, which was beautiful for getting in and on the water and having fun with dinner and breakfast al fresco.
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Kayaking or SUP from Helford Passage Seashore
Helford Passage Seashore is the simplest and hottest launch level on the river for kayaking, canoeing, or stand-up paddleboarding. Deliver your individual or know that there are rental kiosks proper on the sand right here with calm, sheltered waters prepared for you!
When you paddle out, you’re straight into among the greatest wildlife-watching on the south coast… egrets, herons, oystercatchers, and the odd flash of a kingfisher alongside the banks, plus the prospect of recognizing seals and even dolphins additional downriver. It’s additionally one of many extra dependable spots to snorkel for seahorses, which the Helford is quietly well-known for, due to its eelgrass beds and sheltered, nutrient-rich water.
Whether or not you’re renting for an hour or spending a full day exploring, that is undoubtedly the most effective issues to do on Helford River.
Lunch or Dinner at Ferry Boat Inn
Proper on the identical sand right here at Helford Passage, you’ll discover the Ferry Boat Inn – a 300-year-old pub with the most effective beer-garden views on the complete river. Yep, for those who don’t fancy getting on or within the water, you’ll be able to sit right here with a chilly beer and watch others having fun with their adventures as a substitute.
The Ferry Boat Inn is the pure assembly level for anybody exploring the north financial institution, it’s obtained an actual social buzz with folks simply stoked on out of doors journey. Seize a desk on the terrace with a pint of Cornish ale and watch the ferry, kayaks, and paddleboarders come and go. The Inn is an excellent lunch cease earlier than or after a stroll, and likewise the place you’ll be able to choose up the passenger ferry throughout to Helford village for those who’re persevering with your Helford River journey over on the south financial institution.
Trebah Backyard
Trebah is a 26-acre subtropical ravine backyard that tumbles nearly 200 toes right down to its personal non-public seashore on the Helford River, and it’s an important cease… even for these of you who don’t consider yourselves as backyard folks. The valley is planted with large gunnera, tree ferns, and swathes of rhododendron and hydrangea, all fed by a pure spring, and you’ll stroll down by means of the jungle-like cover to the water.
It’s dog-friendly, yay! It has an journey play space for households, and the seashore on the backside is a beautiful, simple spot for a paddle or a picnic when you’ve explored the 4 miles of paths. E book tickets right here by way of Trebah Backyard.
Spa Day, Dinner, or Golf at Budock Vean Lodge
You could have choices right here – guide a keep at this beautiful 4* spa resort (which is what we did), or just drop in for a spa day, dinner, or drinks on the bar and restaurant, which additionally has loads of out of doors seating. Set on 64 acres, the grounds embody a 9-hole golf course, making this the most effective issues to do close to the Helford River for those who’re travelling with mates or a associate who has totally different pursuits – you’ll be able to spend the day doing your individual factor and are available again collectively for an amazing dinner within the night.
Chilly Dip at Grebe Seashore
If you happen to’d like a bit seashore afternoon or a chilly swim at dawn, Grebe Seashore is the spot. Right here you’ve got a neighborhood’s favorite with a secluded, tree-fringed shingle seashore reached by way of a brief woodland stroll from the Nationwide Belief automotive park above Durgan.
The water is calm, clear, and chilly sufficient to correctly wake you up. Apparently, this location grew to become a hub for chilly swimmers in the course of the pandemic and a spot to attach with like-minded folks.
Hearsay has it, come after darkish, late summer time, and on the appropriate evening, you’ll be able to swim by means of bioluminescent plankton that lights up inexperienced with each stroke – a barely earlier and more and more dependable phenomenon right here because the water warms annually. Simply bear in mind that the seashore nearly disappears at excessive tide, so examine tide instances earlier than you decide to a full afternoon on the sand.
Frenchman’s Creek Stroll
This is among the greatest hikes within the Helford River. Begin by searching for the small chapel signal close to Kestle Barton, then comply with the round route clockwise by means of woodland, farmland, and previous the Roskilly’s-run Sincere café for a espresso cease, earlier than dropping down alongside Frenchman’s Creek itself.
Attempt to time it with excessive tide, when the creek fills utterly with water, turning the stroll right into a genuinely magical stretch of glassy, mirror-still creek fringed by historic oaks. At low tide, it’s largely mud.
If you happen to’re staying on the north financial institution (like we have been at Budock Vean), the simplest solution to attain the trailhead with no lengthy drive round is to take the passenger ferry from the Ferry Boat Inn (it’s round £11 a technique), which feels steep for a five-minute crossing, however it saves a 40-minute drive across the estuary and is value each penny.
Kayak Frenchman’s Creek
If you happen to’re not doing the stroll, think about renting a kayak or Canoe from Ferry Boat Inn and making your method down this beautiful creek.
Frenchman’s Creek is just too shallow for motorboats at most states of the tide, which is strictly what makes it the most effective issues to do on the Helford River for paddlers. I’d suggest timing it with excessive tide so that you’ve loads of water beneath you. You’ll have this hauntingly stunning, wooded creek nearly totally to your self with out the sounds of boats passing by.
Be careful for herons, egrets, and kingfishers alongside the banks as you go. Take a picnic and pull up on one of many creek’s tiny shingle seashores.
E book a river cruise and uncover the Helford River from a ship
We have been solely within the Helford River space for 3 days and two nights, nowhere close to sufficient time to make our method round and see all of it. Reserving onto a river cruise felt like the proper solution to discover and see the river from a recent, enjoyable perspective, while additionally birdwatching and listening to some enjoyable myths and tales from our tour information.
We booked our tour by means of Budock Vean Lodge, however you don’t have to be staying there to guide one for your self. Obtainable April – October, this scenic 90-minute boat journey takes you alongside the Helford River, passing charming spots like Trebah Gardens, Frenchman’s Creek, and the historic village of Helford.
Extremely suggest! Probably the greatest issues to do on the Helford River and one in every of our favorite reminiscences! E book right here.
Keep on the Powder Hut, a Nationwide Belief Cottage
For a genuinely particular in a single day keep, guide Powders… a Thirties picket bungalow on the headland the place Frenchman’s Creek meets the primary river, simply noticed on the nook beneath a big tree. It’s named after its unique proprietor, Percy “Powders” Thurburn, a sailor and artist who settled right here after years at sea. The setting is insane. See beneath.
With the riverside pub and put up workplace in Helford village only a stroll throughout the headland, it’s the proper retreat if there are a number of of you coming. Inside, it’s a wise, two-bedroom retreat with wooden floors and a contemporary kitchen, and you’ll hop straight onto the ferry from close by for journeys throughout the river. It’s one of many extra distinctive locations to remain on the Helford River. E book Powders by way of the Nationwide Belief.
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Temperate Rainforest Walks
The woodland lining the Helford is one in every of Britain’s uncommon surviving temperate rainforests, roughly 90% oak, and it’s value constructing an entire afternoon round merely strolling by means of it. This ecosystem, historic, mossy, and dripping with lichen, is the topic of the documentary No Timber No Seas, made with forest ecologist Sam Manning, which explores the stunning connection between wholesome forests like this one and the well being of the ocean past.
Come on the finish of October, and the entire valley turns gold, the paths empty out, and the river fills with mullet and bass, making it pretty much as good a season for anglers as it’s for photographers. Whether or not you’re strolling the Frenchman’s Creek loop, the Durgan-to-Grebe stretch, or the broader coast path, this historic woodland is the backdrop to nearly each the most effective issues to do on the Helford River.
Lunch at Port Navas Yacht Membership
Tucked into the tiny, picture-postcard village of Port Navas, this members’ bar and restaurant welcomes non-members and is among the best-kept secrets and techniques on the entire river.
Come and have lunch at this transformed yacht membership perched proper on the water with a brief, ever-changing menu of genuinely glorious, domestically sourced meals. You’ll be able to arrive by automotive, on foot, or by kayak (paddlers usually pull up on the quay), and count on standout seafood, seasonal specials, and a laid-back, sailing-club ambiance that feels extra like a non-public discovery than a restaurant.
It’s recognized for opening on a restricted seasonal schedule moderately than on daily basis (oo unique vibes), so double-check present opening days and guide forward by e mail earlier than you go. Tables replenish quick in summer time. Reserve by way of the Port Navas Yacht Membership web site.
Helford Village
And final however not least, the most effective issues to do on the Helford River is head to the south financial institution and wander Helford village. Right here you’ve got a cluster of thatched cottages round a tidal creek, with a pub, a small store, and the ferry touchdown level. Native lore (from our river cruise information) holds that Helford was as soon as thought-about so distant and lawless that it was, for a time, successfully past the attain of formal authority. It’s value treating this as a vibrant native legend moderately than confirmed historical past for those who’re repeating it, however it suits the spirit of a spot that also feels splendidly reduce off from the remainder of Cornwall. Wander the lanes, pop into the pub, and soak up simply how quiet a working Cornish river village will be, even in excessive summer time.
Have you ever been to Helford River?
What are the most effective issues to do in Helford River? Something you’d add to this Helford River bucket checklist?
Get lifetime entry to my infinite hours of analysis and time spent on the bottom discovering the most effective locations to eat, drink, calm down and discover in Cornwall. Merely open the Google Map in your system and all my ideas are on the contact of your fingertips.